Scalefour Crewe

The show in Crewe was an excellent experience. Very friendly and Tredethy Wharf received many compliments, it even gained one lady (with no connection to myself) voting it 'Best in Show'.

That said I've taken the decision to pack the layout away for a couple of years and concentrate on my Scalefour Jubilee Challenge layout,  Rospeath Lane. This is for a number of reasons;

• Time: September 2026 will soon be here and due to getting Tredethy Wharf ready for Crewe I've lost about 5 days when I should have been working on Rospeath Lane.
• Rusting Track: I need to solve the issue with the steel rail rusting on Tredethy Wharf. This winter I plan to install a dehumidifier along with some background heat in the log cabin. Next year I'll take a look at the track and if it is still showing signs of rust I'll have to make one of two decisions. To either scrape the layout and salvage what I can or replace the track with Hi-Nickle silver.

Depending on the above decision;

• Scenery: On seeing a few photos taken at Crewe I'm starting to feel that some of the trees look a little naff and other parts of the layout are starting to look tired. I know I could now construct better trees and possible better scenery.
• Backscreen: The back screen was a hasty replacement for the previous blank white background. It has always been my intention to add some subtle detail to the background but never plucked up the courage.
• Cassettes: These have always been a problem. Some being very difficult to use. I'm going to   build a different style of cassette for Rospeath Lane and if they work better than Tredethy Wharf's will scrape the cuurent ones and change to the new style.
• Locomotives: Before Tredethy Wharf's next outing I would at least need to complete the Beattie Well Tank. This has been on hold while I make a decision on converting the layout from DC to DCC. Rospeath Lane will be DCC which should help me to finally make that decision. I've also a GWR 13xx to build for the layout.
• Rolling stock: I have a Brake Van Special to complete along with building a few clay hoods to go behind a blue Class 08.

So, as they say, a layout is never completed, but I really do now need to focus all my hobby time on Rospeath Lane.

Little people

A good friend, and a fellow Tredethy Wharf operator, offered to paint a few figures for my Gricer Train. I gratefully posted half a dozen Dart Casting figures off to him.

I've got to admit that I was suitably embarrassed in the speed these figures were returned. Within a couple of weeks they promptly appeared in our post box. He even fashioned a camera on the young woman to make the figure more appropriate.

I've not put paint on a brush for many months and to have these returned so quickly was an excellent kick up the proverbial. Along with little people for the Gricer, I also require a number of footplate figures along with guards. Out came the tray, and figure painting has commenced...

With all that is going on currently with the COVID-19 lockdown, the distractions of playing golf has been removed. I now have no excuse not to get more figures painted.

Brake Vans - A Gricer train (1)

Another task I need to address is a Brake Van Special to run on Tredethy Wharf. Roger Cox has been more than generous in allowing me to borrow his Gricer train for a number of exhibitions. Even though I'm extremely grateful to him, I think it's about time I created one myself. So, I've purchased a number of figures which need painting to populate the brake vans. As far as brake vans are concerned, only a Southern Railway Queen Mary has been finished and populated with figures. I have seen a photo of a Queen Mary brake van at Wadebridge - but cannot recall exactly where? I have also come across the photo below of a Queen Mary at Dunmere.

Don't know if it would have been a candidate for a Gricer train, though surely it could have been used at some point.

 

On the Bachmann model above I've used MJT components for the bogies and side frames, this combination has produced a very free running and stable van.

The two Brake Vans above have been in a part converted/upgraded state for over 12 months, just need to get some mojo back to get them completed.

Only require 3 or 4 more Brake Vans and 30 or so painted figures... 

The Old and the New

Normally I think the saying goes "out with the old and in with the new", but I thought I'd try my hand at combining the old with the new.

Again I've been thinking about what skills I lack and also what I've purchased to have a go at and not had the courage to start. I think it was at a Letterhead Scaleforum that, with all the bravado of a newbie to the hobby, I purchased a Craig Welsh etch for a 9ft RCH chassis. After a very poor attempt at constructing a Bill Bedford etch for a 16T mineral wagon Mr Welsh's etch was allowed to languish in a box along with a couple of wooden mineral wagon kits. In subsequent years I've been enticed to purchased some Rumney Models etches so I thought it was about time I had a go at constructing a chassis etch od some description.

When digging out the box containing Craig Welsh's etch I found this very old Ian Kirk kit.

God knows how long I've had this kit. Unlike Ian Kirk's later offerings for this type of wagon there is no internal planking detail on this vintage kit. Even so I thought if I make a good attempt at marrying this to Craig's etch it could be permanently loaded with coal to disguise the lake of internal detail.

So...

The body goes together reasonably well, though I think I may have to cut a new bottom for the wagon. I've already assigned the brake gear to the bin and the next task will be to remove the W irons and V hanger from the solebars.

As I'd spent a few moments (well more than a few) mulling over this little project, reading the build instructions for Craig's and also Rumney Models etches, that was as far as I got during last evenings visit to the "Man Cave".

A white metal interlude

The other day I received an email from Missenden Abbey reminding me of the up and coming Spring Weekend that I've enrolled on. Of all the courses available, I'd chosen to attend the session on 4mm Locomotive Kit Construction. It was a tough decision as there were 4 other courses from which I could learn much: Weathering; Backscenes and scenery;Trackwork; also DCC Sound. In the end I realised that my skills in locomotive construction are currently my main weakness. Though I have had an 03 chassis built for me and have another area group member building a Beattie Well Tank chassis, I cannot rely on the good will of these guys for too long.

The decision I have to make is what to take to Missenden. My current options being:

• A DJH 1366 kit - with the aim to get a working chassis by Sunday afternoon.
• Another Beattie Well Tank - with the aim to get a working chassis by Sunday afternoon.
• A 57xx Chassis as well as taking first attempt at a  57xx chassis for correction.
• The white metal body kit of the Beattie Well Tank that the chassis is being built for.

In thinking about the last option it made me realise that I've not yet constructed a white metal kit. Would I really need to use my time at Missenden just to build a white metal locomotive body? Hmmm... That might not be getting the most out of the weekend.

So, to test my white metal soldering skills, I blew the dust off a couple of Four Most Models wagon kits. The first to get the heat treatment was a SR 12T 8 plank wagon.

 

Well, overall it's not turned out too bad. I don't think there is anything that a little filler cannot rectify. I'm not brave enough yet to apply more solder to fill some of the joints for fear I'll de-solder a joint. As a bonus the wheels are all in the same plain and it runs true with, so far, no derailments on Tredethy Wharf. I've not installed coupling hooks yet as I'm not sure if the white metal ones provided with the kit would be up to the task.

On to the next wagon, a  LSWR 10T round ended open.

I thought I'd compensate this wagon. Possibly no need to but had itching figures to use the MJT 2291 compensation units again.

After this brief trial of constructing these white metal kits my trepidation of tackling a white metal loco kits has lessened greatly. So this little interlude from the Brake Van Special has proven to me that my time at Missenden should be used mainly on one of the three chassis building projects not wholly on a white metal kit.

Brake Van Special - Toad B

To add a little variation to the rake of brake vans for the Brake Van Special, I decided to dig out a Parkside's kit of a Toad B. I believe that some lasted into the 1960s in their original state so thought one might have found its way down to Cornwall. This is probably unlikely but as a Toad E was used on the Wenfordbridge Branch it might have happened...

When building plastic wagon kits I normally remove the plastic w irons complete with springs and axle boxes leaving just the wagon solebars. I then reduce the thickness of the solebars so that MJT W iron suppression units can be installed. Appropriate cast springs and axle boxes are then added to complete the running gear. In looking at the Toad B solebars I became aware of some very fragile components that, knowing me, would get damaged in the above procedure. This got me thinking of using MJT 2291 suspension units instead which would enable me to keep the Parkside offerings on the kit.

I believe the standard way to install these compensation units is to only use one rocking unit and insert bearings into the opposite end plastic axle boxes to create a fixed axle. In this instance, to make sure the ride height is parallel, I decided to install two units making one non rocking by slipping an appropriate thickness of plastic card between the mounting plate and the rocking assembly. The only other requirement was to create a groove in one set of the plastic axle boxes to allow one unit to rock.

 Other minor modifications I made to the kit are:

• Replacing the plastic buffers with white metal ones supplied by Lanakshire Models.
• Replacing the plastic torpedo vents in the roof with Lanakshire Models castings.
• Installing three link couplings.

I've left the roof loose so that a few figures can be easily added to each veranda. The model's weight can then be checked and, if required, more weight can be added inside the van.

Next stage is making and fitting all the hand rails... Hmmm, this should be fun!

Web site update

eBay sales have been going well, which has enabled me to fill in gaps of coaching stock requirements for my ambitious Grogley Junction. Oh, golf clubs have also been purchased.

On the modelling front I've made a start on converting a couple of Class 08 shunters for Tredethy Wharf. These two will eventually be St Blazey engines but a little more research is involved as I'm realising that the differences between 08s is a potential minefield. Also on my workbench are four 7 plank wagons.

Three of the above are Bachmann models which are receiving either a complete repaint and/or weathering. A fourth is a very old wagon of uncertain parentage which I've had for some time in a part-built state. My plan for the next few months is to try and clear as many part completed wagon projects as possible before starting on new builds or conversions. These part-built projects include a Cambrian LMS steel box van; a repainted Bachmann steel open wagon with wooden doors and a SR Plywood 12T van which I've also repainted; aalong with a couple of part-built Cambrian Models 16T mineral wagons. I'll then make a start on a few Brake Vans and people for the Brake Van Special. Once these are completed I hope to have cleared more "stuff" via eBay and created a reasonable hobby fund for making a start on Grogley Junction.

The title of this post of "Web site update" is due to time also being spent updating my Tredethy Wharf Web pages. The updates have now been applied and the new pages are now live. If anyone is interested the site can be found at: http://tredethywharf.co.uk/

Empty clay wagon train

Well, I think, for the moment, the empty clay wagoms might be finished...

In the future I might do a bit of extra weathering but they will definitely be OK for the Lincoln show next weekend.

Empty Clay Wagons

Just to prove I have been doing something relating to Tredethy Wharf during the last few weeks. I've posted a couple of pics below of the next batch of china clay wagons that are now ready for the paint shop.

These five clay wagons are being built using the Ratio kit with modified axle boxes and brake gear. The intention is for these wagons to be empty versions of the early unfitted British Railways Dia. 1/051. British Railways built the first 300 unfitted but quickly converted to vacuum brake but I'm hoping that a few might have remained unfitted until the early 1960s. The next batch will be the vacumm fitted versions.

Weathered wood (Part 3)

With the repainting of the 7 plank progressing more to the warm dark shades of browns, I thought I'd try a different approach with the Bachmann 5 plank wagon. Below is the start of the process...

On this wagon I thougth I'd start with a light base coat so applied Lifecolor's Cool Base. You can see on the right od the wagon the start of dry brushing some light grey over the base coat to try to acheive a sun bleached effect. Unfortunately after further dry brushing of a darker grey, along with good old Bestial Brown from Citadel followed by a few strokes of Lifecolor's Dark Shade the result is again not totally what I'm after.

Further work is required on the internal woodwork of the above Bachmann wagon and I've only worked on one external side. Not sure if I have the courage to apply some light stokes of a silvery grey over the wagons current state but I think that is what it needs...

Below is a further photo of the current state of the revamped 7 plank. I think this one will eventually need more black (coal dust) washed over the sides as I'm not really happy with the way it's turning out.

Both wagons require numbering, then once I've added the brake gear, axles boxes and springs to the 7 plank, some delicate weathering will be applied to the sides and running gear.

Well... I'm still not quite achieving the results I'm after with these wagons but nonetheless I am enjoying the process.

Weathered Wood (Part 2)

Well the attempt at creating a bare wood effect on the old wagon is going OK but I'm still ending up with warm browns not the more washed-out effect I'm really after.

I'd recently purchased a set of Lifecolor's Weathered Wood acrylic paint. On the face of it this set contains some vibrant colours so I did wonder what all the fuss is about from good reviews. To find out I thought I'd trial the colours on this wagon.

I started off applying the UA714 Warm Base Color with a small brush to try and get an uneven coating. Next using the same technique, the UA715 Warm Light Shade was applied, followed by the UA716 Warm Light Shade 2. All seemed to be going well although the result was too bright for my liking. It was toned down after applying, again with a small brush with thin strokes the UA713 Warm Dark Shade which allowed some of the underneath colours to show through. I then tried to apply highlights using UA718 Cold Light Shade with an almost dry brush. To finish, a very thin coat of black was washed over the wagon to pick out the plank edges. For the moment the Iron Work has only had a coating of Chaos Black. Tomorrow I'll be weathering the iron work, also trying to pick out the bolt heads, and tidy up the plank edges.

Overall the result is not too bad, once finished it might pass muster and appear on Tredethy Wharf. Still room for improvement though especially as it has not given me the effect I'm trying to achieve.

Weathered wood (Part 1)

A few years ago (blimey it was in 2011) I built a 7 plank private open wagon and tried to paint it to represent bare weathered wood. Though I liked the outcome at the time, on reflection, I feel I'm a little off the mark...I now think my attempt was a tad too yellow. It needs to be a little more silvery-grey with subtle light grey-brown tones along with hints of yellowy warmth. With the doors on the barn for Tredethy Wharf requiring similar effects, I though I'd return to some wagons to trial weathered wood painting techniques

I'm going to use the following three articles off the web along with Craig Welsh's article in MRJ 200 as examples.

Craig Welsh rmweb blog
http://thief.washboardabs.net/textures/wood/ 

http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/weathered_wood/
(If you explore the last link you should find some nice techniques for wooden effects when startng out with a blank piece of white plasticard).

So, to start this little project off, I dug out a very old, part built, wagon which, I believe, is an Ian Kirk kit.

On the left: 7 plank built in 2011: On the right: old 7 plank kit to be used as a test

In the picture above is the aforementioned 7 plank wagon on the left, on the right is the very old kit with a poor attempt at representing bare wood. We all must have some items that have been put away in disgust at our attempt to create an effective model and this one must have been languishing in a drawer for over 20 years. Behind the two 7 planks is a Bachmann 5 plank wagon that is also up for a bit of a repaint

More to follow...

Are tarpaulin ropes worth the effort?

Will adding tarpaulin ropes to my clay wagons be worth the effort? Hmmm...

Last Thursday I entertained the members of the local Scalefour Group who thankfully gave my clay wagons the thumbs up. When I mentioned that I'd been debating whether to add ropes to the tarpaulins there was a couple of playful comments of 'Oh go on, give it a go', 'You've got to finish them'.

Next evening my first thought was where were the ropes tied off on the wagon. After spending a pleasant hour or two browsing though my library of books trying to find decent photos of clay wagons with tarpaulins, I eventually remembered Mr Russell's book on "GWR Freight wagons and loads..." and Bingo...

Many moons ago I'd purchased some scale rope from a wargaming show which I thought would be a good starting point for roping down loads. The question was how to represent the hooks? I thought they're too small to be created with wire especially after the rope is attached. So I've glued the rope to the approximate locations on the wagon and added a small knot of rope to represent some bulk around the hook.

Door End

Fixed End

I thought, 'so far so good' until I added the roped wagon to the rest of the wagons to see what the effect was. It then became a game of spot the wagon with the ropes...

Spot the wagon that has ropes...

So will I be adding rope to the other wagons? When applying the two foot rule, probably not, as it looks like the rope colour is lost against the background colour of these clay wagons. On darker backgrounds of wagon loads/containers or even bauxite coloured clay wagons I think they might look effective so I've not totally given up on the idea.

Getting back into the modelling chair

I've finally been able to spend some time on the toy train set. First task has been getting back to work on the first batch of clay wagons by finishing applying transfers, tentatively using an airbrush to finish dusting them with a thin coating of white, then trying to add a little more detail with a few brush strokes and playing around with creating a few more clay dusted tarpaulins. Results so far are below...

I've purposely left one wagon without a tarpaulin as I was beginning to like the way it looked without one. I'll have to fold one up and install inside the wagon if it's going to be left as an empty wagon.

Hopefully this last lengthy hiatus has passed and my mojo has returned which means I'll be able to make some serious progress over the coming months...

Tarpaulins (Part 2)

After advice left on my original post I have been continuing with tarpaulin trials for my clay wagons. I must admit that I'd given kitchen foil a quick consideration for tarpaulins but had discounted it as it seemed very flimsy and easily torn. David Smith's comment that kitchen foil might allow planking detail to show though made me have a rethink. Gluing tissue paper to kitchen foil would give it extra stiffness, so I thought it might be worth a try. First attempt, which is on the left of the picture below, was good. I'd not sprayed the foil first so the result is very white, which might not be a bad result considering it's covering a clay wagon...

1st kitchen foil tarpaulins

The one on the right was treated the same as the take-away trays, being  sprayed grey before gluing the tissue paper to the foil. The combination of the thin kitchen foil and tissue paper does allow the tarpaulin to be moulded over and around the wagon stanchions quite well. I these are an improvement on the take-away trays. Many thanks David.

1st attempt at a weathered kitchen foil tarpaulin

The tarpaulin in the above picture was a second plain white (foil not spray painted before tissue paper applied) which I've attempted to weather a little. I've tried to give it a slight green tinge which I don't think has come out that well on the photo. This was to see if I could get away without spraying the foil first. I am reasonably pleased with it and it's a method that would bring more variations in colour for the tarpaulins on my fleet of clay wagons....

The other method that was mentioned was to glue layers of toilet paper together. I did trial this but found it to be too springy. It folded around the wagon reasonably well but the folds were not as sharp as the foil based tarpaulins. I could glued the tissue/toilet paper around a wagon, or even layer the paper on the wagon by wrapping some cling film around the wagon first. This would stop the glue from damaging the wagon, and also allowed the tarpaulin to be removed for painting. BUT I think I'd already been sold on the kitchen foil method as my thoughts were wandering further ahead...

There are many printed paper tarpaulins available, all are supplied with text/numbers printed white on black. In attempts to crumple these and apply to wagons I've never been overly satisfied with the result. Unlike some modellers my skills have not been adequate to hide the fact that they are crumpled paper. So while working on the tarpaulins for my clay wagons my thoughts had been drifting to how I might apply text to these foil based tarpaulins for use on general merchandise wagons.

1st attempted at a printed tarpaulin

A foil sheet, with tissue paper applied, was carefully tacked with sellotape to a sheet of A4 paper. A couple of the pre-printed tarpaulin sheets where scanned in to the computer then printed onto the foil tarpaulin sheet.  Unfortunately I'd decided not to pre-spray the foil before applying the tissue paper which showed as the finish has a slight shiny sheen. Next attempt was to spray the foil before gluing on the tissue paper.

2nd attempt at a printed tarpaulin

Well, it came out sort of OK... the white lettering is looking dirty with the fine lettering very faded. I am a little unsure of the result as it was not quite what I was expecting. It might look better in the morning. I may go back to the previous printed tarpaulin and try lightly weathering it. A mix of grey-green-black paint dry brushed over the tarpaulin might help to hide the slight shiny sheen. Then I can compare the two.

Overall I'm feeling these tarpaulins are a reasonable success. No doubt a few more trials and rejects to come but the basics are there...I must now get back to building more clay wagons along with getting one of my 08s converted to bring a little authenticity to the layout.

Tarpaulins

Just like buses, you wait for ages then three arrive together....but at last a little bit of modelling…

I've been experimenting with a few different materials to create tarpaulins for my clay wagons. 

One attempt was using some black cloth which still looked like black cloth when wrapped around the wagon. Even after weathering the cloth weave was too large and it just looked wrong.

I do remember, from way back, that people used to use toothpaste tubes for tarpaulin covers. As toothpaste tubes are now plastic my thoughts turned to using aluminium takeaway trays. A couple were acquired, contents used (very tasty)... the trays were then washed and flattened. I've collected a few photographs of the early WR/BR clay wagons with tarpaulin covers and started to attempt to replicate them. A few trial shapes were cut out of the trays and wrapped around a wagon. Once happy with the shape a template was cut and more produced.  A couple were then folded around a wagon, removed and sprayed black. Unfortunately I was not totally happy with the result. The paint easily rubbed off which was a worry. Even after a little weathering being applied they still looked, to me anyway, as aluminium sprayed black with a little weathering.

At an area group meeting tarpaulins were discussed and toothpaste tubes also mentioned. Then at the next meeting I was kindly presented with a tomato puree tube. In the mean time I'd also spied a part used Mushroom Pate tube in our fridge which was quickly finished. These were both cut open, cleaned and sprayed, one black and one grey. These are made from a thicker material than the takeaway trays and being printed they took paint better. But I was disappointed in the thickness of the material, making it difficult to fashion around a wagon and they really just looked too thick when on the wagon. I was starting to get a little disappointed with my efforts so the project had been put on one side for a couple of weeks. 

While wandering around Scaleforum I came across issue 70 of the  DEMU Update magazine being offered for free.  I picked a copy up and shoved it in my bag, thinking I'd have a look at it later. In the car on the way home the magazine was quickly thumbed through. I was surprised to find an article on creating tarpaulins for the Bachmann clay hoods by Jon Baulch in which he describes using masking tape for the tarpaulin. This prompted a conversation on the journey home and we got around to discussing applying tissue paper to van roofs to allow the roof boarding to show through. Cue 'blinding flash of light'... I thought what about applying tissue paper to my takeaway tray tarpaulins…would this give me the texture I was after...?

Tarpaulins on the GWR Dia 013 clay wagons

The above photo shows one takeaway tray tarpaulin sprayed grey the other black. Both had thin tissue paper glued on to them using a wash of PVA glue. When dry they where refolded around the wagons. As yet no additional paint or weathering has been applied. To my eyes the result is starting to look good…

A little more playing around, possibly with adding some ropes Might also try a little dry brushing with an off white greyish colour. Anyway I'm feeling progress is being made, could be nearly there...

What's been happening?

Evening all...I must apologise for the lack of posts during the last few months. I've not been near any blogs or forums for some time so have some catching up to do. I seem to have been very busy but not on the modelling front. Along with trying to earn the daily crust and everyday domestics, we have a couple of projects on the go that are taking a lot of our spare time, more of which later.

A small amount of progress, however, has been made on a few clay wagons. I've also started to look at building some Ratio clay wagon kits by converting them to original 'as built' condition (not with roller bearings as supplied in the kit) as well as doing trials with different materials for tarpaulins for the clay wagons.  I've dropped-in some P4 wheel sets into a number of Bachmann goods wagons, all which was a lot easier than I expected. With the addition of three link couplings I can see that this is a quick way of building a small fleet of reasonably acceptable P4 wagons. In an attempt to improve one of these wagons I've started to repaint and weather a Bachmann LNER 13T steel open wagon that has wooden doors. I'm still trying to gain the skill of representing worn wood. There is a lot more work to be done on this wagon but I feel it's starting to look an improvement on its all over dark grey pristine commercial finish...

LNER 13t steel sided open wagon

A few of the niggles with Tredethy Wharf that came to light during the Cleethorpes show have also been sorted. By using his lathe, Clive has kindly solved the wobbly pony wheels on my 45xx and also milled my storage cassettes to matching pairs. Unfortunately there has been no further progress with the scenics on the little layout.

The two projects that have been eating into our spare time are:
 1) The purchase of the 'run down' house next door with the aim to turn it into a holiday cottage, which has opened up a 'can of worms' dealing with planning and conservation. We are currently still going through the process of developing a business plan to enable us to apply for any grants that might be available. We have also been on numerous free courses on business development. I've not been in a position to write a business plan before so this is a whole new experience.
2) We are going through the motions of becoming respite foster carers, this has been going on for months with many interviews (interrogations) and attending courses. If successful this project is going to have (I hope) a positive affect on the space I will have for my hobbies... as we will need a spare bedroom...

It just so happens that the spare bedroom we have decided to free up is my current study/modelling den. This brings us to the garage... the plan is to turn the garage into a space I can use all year round for my hobbies... with possibly a small area under the stairs in the house where I can keep small projects to be worked on in the evenings without having to be continually 'banished' to the garage.

Empty-ish garage

After a few weeks of sorting the garage (several trips to the tip and charity shops) and moving remaining stuff temporarily into next door it is now just about empty. Over the next few evenings and weekends more ceiling joists will be installed along with cable runs for a ring main and more lighting before fixing the plasterboard ceiling into place, laying insulation between joists and topping off with loft boards for storage. Then it will be onto the walls. It's been a long time since I've done any serious DIY, so progress will be steady but when finished should be an excellent space. I think it's a fair swop, a 23' x 8'10" garage for 7' x 8' bedroom!

China Clay wagons GWR dia 013 (part 6)

Back to modelling posts.

Eventually the first eight of my china clay wagons are ready for the paint shop.

Eight, Ian Kirk, china clay wagons

I've built four with independent Morton brake gear and four with standard four shoe Morton brake gear. On one of the latter I've not installed tie bars between the W irons as I've seen photographic evidence of a rebuilt clay wagon without tie bars.

I might leave these wagons in the unfinished state for a while and start on another eight clay wagons. My reason... well I'm thinking it might be better to have sixteen wagons in the above state available for Tredethy's first outing in May next year. This would enable me to run two trains of eight, one set of eight empty and the other eight with tarpaulins. If I get chance to paint a few before May I will. Leaving the wagons in a part completed state might also make a conversation point, and at least they will be in a similar state to the layout... still under construction.

So which clay wagons to be next, Ratio, Parkside Dundas or more Ian Kirk... I'll keep you posted.

GWR Clay wagons dia 013 (Part 5)

I'm gradually getting there with my first eight clay wagons especially as I've found more evidence of single V hangers on GWR diagram 013 clay wagons.

On page 54 of 'Great Western Steam in Cornwall' by Bradford Barton there is a photograph of a Pannier Tank 7714 hauling a rake of GWR diagram 013 clay wagons from the Burngullow branch. The first has a double V hanger but the second has a single V hanger with no tie bar. The rest are difficult to make out for certain.

Then on page 91 in the same book there is a photo of  Pannier 7709 hauling two clay wagons nearing Fowey. The first wagon has a single V hanger and looks to be a diagram 013. I think the second wagon is a BR diagram 1/51 as it has square ended buffer beams and looks to have a single v hanger but I'm not certain.

In discovering these photographs I'm more confident that there were a number of these GWR wagons refurbished during the 1950s with independent brake gear removed and replaced with standard 4 shoe Morton brake gear. This has encourged me to build four with independent brake gear and four with standard 4 shoe brake gear, more as a mistake than planed, as I'd installed a couple of brake gear castings the wrong way round.

The wagon front left in the photograph above is the first one which was converted from my EM days and shows the door stop straps in the wrong place. On the others I've scraped off the original mouldings and replaced them with stripes of Evergreen .010 x .030" strip, added small slices of Evergreen .010 x 0.20" strip to represent the bolts. The buffer beams have also had the ends cut at an angle, possibly not that accurate but at least the buffer beams don't have square ends anymore. All eight wagons need door stops, tie bars and couplings adding, plus some lead and then they should then be ready for the paint shop.

Bearing in mind that most of these eight wagons where originally EM gauge wagons, that have been ripped apart and rebuilt, I feel they are coming on nicely. The next challenge will be to achieve the correct finish.

The two foot rule.

I would not count myself as a 'rivet counter' just someone who would like to build wagons to represent the real item as close as my modelling skills will allow. My foray into P4 modelling standards is because I felt if I didn't have a go I would always regret it.

I met up with some old modelling friends recently and in an ensuing conversion I mentioned the time it is taking me to build a few clay wagons along with the amount of wagons I intend to build. Questions were raised about my sanity before I was reminded of the old phrase about applying the 'two foot rule'. If the detail cannot be seen from a viewing distance of two foot then why spend time adding the detail. I then made the connection with painting 15mm wargaming figures. When I paint battalions of 12 to 24 figures which are going to be seen on the table on-mass I paint them to be seen as whole units. Paint the figures so they give a visual impact when seen together as part of each battalion on the table. I don't necessarily cut too many corners with the painting but possibly don't put too much effort in, picking out buttons on tunics, adding shading on facial features, or any other small detail. Whereas I do put effort painting the personalities/command figures, picking out buttons, adding extra shading and trying to pick out facial features.

With this in mind and as most of the clay wagons will be part of a rake (battalion) of 8 or more wagons, I will be turning a blind eye to some aspects of the Ian Kirk kits, and taking a few liberties in building them. This may go a little against the grain of modelling in P4 but I feel I have to cut myself some slack otherwise I'll struggle to get all the wagons I will need built in my lifetime. When seen on-mass I'm hoping they will create the right picture that can be appreciated from two foot away when viewed side on. They might not stand up to the scrutiny of a close-up camera shot but then they are not being built for a diorama containing just a few wagons.

Does that sound like a cop out for some poor modelling skills? Hmmm could be...